Each Cook Should Train Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.
When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.
A Shocking Recognition
This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.
“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
The Namesake Creation: Tantuni
In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.
It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.
Surpassing the Titans
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
The Ethos of Heart
It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Journey of Hard Work
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
A Achievement for the Culture
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.